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Roots
For the anniversary where the meal is the occasion and neither of you wants to make a single decision all evening.
Roots is chef Tommy Banks's York restaurant and the first in the city to win a Michelin star, which it took in 2021. It sits in an Arts and Crafts building on Marygate, a quiet street a few minutes from the centre, which is the first thing in its favour: you arrive having already left the crowds behind rather than pushing through them.
The format is a tasting menu, evenings only, and that is the point. A tasting menu removes the small negotiations that can quietly flatten an anniversary dinner, the deliberating over starters, the mild disappointment when one of you orders better than the other. Somebody else has decided, the sequence has been designed, and your only job is to sit there for three hours. For a milestone anniversary that structure is worth more than any individual dish.
The cooking is built around produce from the kitchen garden, regional suppliers and the Banks family farm, so the menu moves genuinely with the season rather than rotating a fixed set of dishes. It is the sister restaurant to The Black Swan at Oldstead, and shares its farm-to-fork ethos without feeling like a satellite.
A practical note on what to expect from the mood of the room. Roots is quiet but not solemn, and the service is warm rather than ceremonial, which matters because tasting-menu restaurants can tip easily into reverence. Nobody will whisper at you. The pacing leaves real gaps between courses, and those gaps are where the conversation happens, so the three hours do not feel like an endurance test.
If you are choosing between Roots and Arras, the two Banks restaurants in the city, the distinction is temperament rather than quality. Roots is the more composed and the more seasonal. Arras is the more inventive and the more technically showy. For a first significant anniversary, Roots. For a couple who have already done a lot of tasting menus and want to be surprised, Arras.
Who it is not for: anyone who wants to eat and be out in ninety minutes, or who finds a fixed sequence of small courses more stressful than relaxing. If one of you is a nervous or restricted eater, the no-substitution philosophy of this style of restaurant can make the evening tense rather than special.
Editor’s note
Tasting menu only in the evening, so budget three hours by design. Book well ahead: it is the hardest table in York to get at short notice.
